Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
